I doubt that most people in rustang community get worried at 6500.
Old school drag motors were they took 302s and went with pinto rods and bored motor 60 over use to spin well into 7000 with stock rod bolts.
With good bolts and rods they made them spin alot higher.
327 chevys were known to rev high as well.
Hell my 351 will go to 6000 no prob but cant go much past with heads and intake on it.
I doubt that most people in rustang community get worried at 6500.
Old school drag motors were they took 302s and went with pinto rods and bored motor 60 over use to spin well into 7000 with stock rod bolts.
With good bolts and rods they made them spin alot higher.
327 chevys were known to rev high as well.
Hell my 351 will go to 6000 no prob but cant go much past with heads and intake on it.
i asked you about the motor.. you said heads.. heads hardly make the motor stout. and infact, B&W even stated to me to NOT over rev the motor with alot of boost.. that motor is worth 8gs.. not only do i doubt you spent that much on yours (considering racerrick is your pit crew) i doubt you shifted at 8500..
Not only were you WAY out of the powerband running NA, its gay on a stock motor w. heads... retarded actually.
I dont care about what people have for drag motors, im asking you about your car... Dont care about chevy either..
If your debate is you CAN reve to 8500, sure, you can. You can rev to 10K surely, doesnt mean its beneficial at all. You say UCHI hs the video. Paste it.
I bet that shit is out of breath NA at 6500+
Well, this can open up a hole new can of worms here. So I will just come out and say it. I will also appoligises to if I burst some bubbles and trow more wood on the fire too.
Here are some facts from my own motor. It was a built small block 400. It had a shift point of 7400. It ran mid 10's with a trap speed of 135mph. It had a set of 4.55 gears. Before the end of the 1/4, it would alread hit the 7400rpm with about 300 feet left. The engine would not make any more power after that mark, so no need to go past it. I did over rev this motor once. My own stupid fault and bent all the exhaust valves in doing so. This is how I did it. I was about to do a burn out in the middle of the road. A car was coming so I pulled off to the side. Once gone, I reversed the car back into the spot. I went from reverse to drive. I didn't drop it back into first though, left it in 3rd. Did the burn out, then drove off, saw the shift light come on and shift. You all know what is after Drive on the shifter don't you???!!!. Thats right,neutral. My foot to the floor and shifted it to neutral. Luckly, only bent the exhaust vavles and minor marks on the pistons. This was just to inform you how much revs a built chevy can take.
Now, being that I haven't played with fords in a long time. I can tell you then can rev to 8500 without much effort if you have the right head and cam combinations. You all have to stay away from the imports and fuel inject cars to understand the old way of racing and what a real power ford actually has under their hoods. There is a reason why the have the saying "built Ford tough".
Alrighty, maybe its time for me to chime in.
I have built several 302's, whether they were stock 302s 306s 331s or 347s. I've put superchargers, nitrous, turbo's and even built N/A motors. I have worked for and alongside some of the best in the Ford engine community (in Toronto that is).
With that aside, let me say this. SirChirpAlot is retarded. I have never in my life seen a stock, or stock headed 302 (or 289) make power past 6000rpm. I have never, in my life, seen anyone shift the same 302 past 8000rpm more than once.
You see, engines contain things called connecting rods. And those connecting rods are connected to these things we call pistons via piston pins. Just for the record, the connecting rods are connected to the crank hence the name connecting rods. There are little 5/16" bolts that fasten the connecting rods to the crankshaft. All of this is contained in a very high tech cast iron block, that was designed somewhere in the hippy infested 60's. The same block actually dates back to its cousin measuring 221 cubic inches.
Now, the faster you spin the motor (RPM) the more stress you put on everything connected to the crankshaft (this is the thing that turns all the pistons and rods). The first thing connected is the connecting rod, which has 2 puny and weak bolts connecting it. Those are usually the first to go above 7000rpm. Then there are the piston pins, which are stronger than the bolts but usually dont matter cuz at 8000rpm the bolts would have snapped already. Then we have our pistons. They'll be pumping up and down so fast that they would either crack or smash into the cylinder head because the rod bolt broke at 7129rpm. Even if you have ARP rod bolts, they cannot hold those stress levels. IF the rod bolt dont break, the rod itself will.
Again, I will reiterate what I just said. On the child style, so you don't miss. SirChirpAlot, you need Jesus. You are a liar, and a moron. Take these lies back to the priest, he should give you 10 hail mary's or something and then you can go visit your nearest shop to learn a thing or two. Maybe next time you can come up with a lie that is actually believeable. Something like...... I revved my stock headed 302 up to 8500 RPM and it broke!
Geeeeez, you people really need to learn about internal combustion engines before you make fools out of yourselves. I've taken apart and blown up more 302s than probably everyone on this site combined, so I think I *MIGHT* know what I'm talking about. Any questions?
SS
Ohh yeah, and to make power you need something called airflow and port volume. A head with 160cc's of intake port volume and 1.78 valves will not feed the air requirements beyond 6000rpm even if you retard your .600" lift cam and install that Edelbrock super victor intake and 850 Demon race carb.
SS
B6T = the Sirchirpalot of Festiva owners.
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